How-to Balance An Experience and ‘Dolce Far Niente.’
The Amalfi coast is just as pretty as Pinterest makes it out to be. so if you’re looking for where to stay, what to do, and better yet where to eat…look no further.
While there are many charming towns on the Amalfi Coast, Positano topped my travel bucket list. Between the colorful homes and hotels built into the sides of the cliff, the emerald water, winding road, and an unreal Aperol Spritz, it’s every bit as magical as you would imagine.
Where to stay: We marked out five days of our Italian tour for Positano. So, here’s the thing. Le Sirenuse isn’t the only hotel option in Positano. Is it the most well known? Probably. Is it one of the prettiest? Absolutely. Is the one of the most expensive? For sure. So if you’re only staying for a day or two, ya it would be a beautiful experience. If you’re staying longer, I’d 12/10 rec where we stayed - Hotel Marincanto. It’s a 4-star hotel with coastal charm nestled into the cliff on the end of the main beach. It has an infinity pool, vine covered pergola, and private beach access via a cliffside staircase. As stated on their website, ‘the founder was once the mayor welcoming famous personalities and contributed to making it the symbol of the “dolce vita” along the Amalfi coast.’ Also, they have jacuzzi tubs on the balcony with large open door style windows, sooo there’s that. Oh, and a fabulous Italian breakfast spread.
Where to eat: If you want to save, grab a sandwich lined with fresh Buffalo Mozzarella from Delicatessen before you walk down to the beach. If you want to splurge, make a reservation for lunch or dinner with a stunning view at La Sponda inside Le Sirenuse. If you want a true Italian family meal opt for the €40 per person fixed menu at La Tagliata. With your reservation, a shuttle will pick you up and take you to the top of the hill for a family style farm to table meal you will never forget. For dessert don’t miss out on the lemon sorbet served inside a giant lemon from the Covo Dei Saraceni hotel. When it comes to cocktails, get an Aperol Spritz or the house wine literally wherever you are.
The dining area inside of La Sponda at Le Sirenuse.
What to do: Hike the Il Sentiero degli Dei. This approximately 4mi cliffside trail travels between Bomerano/Agerola and Positano with stunning panoramic views of Capri and the Amalfi Coast along the way. The trail starts at Piazza Paolo Capasso in Bomerano and ends in Nocelle which is a mountain neighborhood above Positano. To get back to Positano, you can either take a bus or descend a steep staircase of 1500+ steps. The trail takes approximately 4hrs, but that does not include the previously mentioned crazy staircase so tack on an extra 45min or so for that! Now, the trail really only runs one direction, so accessing it can be a little tricky. If you’re staying in Positano you will need to take a SITA Bus to Agerola and then switch to another bus to Bomerano to access the trailhead. Unfortunately, there is no direct route from Positano so you will do a bit of backtracking. You can purchase a bus ticket at most bars or tabacchi shops and make sure you buy it the night before. It should take a bout 1 1/2 hrs to get there. Another option that is slightly less time consuming is taking the ferry to Agerola and then the bus to Bomerano. Whatever you choose, make sure you go in the morning so it’s cooler and less crowded. Wear comfortable shoes and pack water. Also, it’s not a bad idea to grab a sandwich from a little shop in Nocelle if you opt to make your way down the stairs. Lastly, the time of year is important. We hiked this trail in mid-April and the weather was perfection.
What beaches to visit: As many as possible, simply put. We spent a majority of our time at two beaches: Spiagga Grande Beach and Fornillo Beach. Spiagga Grande Beach is the main beach in Positano, it’s lined with restaurants, little shops, and even a famous discotheque. Fornillo Beach is a bit more private and is a fairly short and very romantic walk to the other side of the cliff.
Spiagga Grande Beach
Fornillo Beach
